Monday, March 9, 2009

stairs, people running across tarmac.
When the plane arrived at Trapani, again the rush to get off. Trapani terminal is brand new, beautiful and clean. There are no phone booths in terminal, everyone has cell phones.
I took a look cab to the Garabaldi apartment, it is in a very nice neighborhood. It is in a small coutyard, with palm trees. It is a studio with a small separate kitchen, which has a gas stove and full size refrigerator. I walked around the neighborhood, it is elegant and clean. All the buildings are stone, stone streets and sidewalks, shops,cafes and close to main post office and museums.
The apartment was OK, but a few problem, was just a cook top, not a stove, had to hand lit. The water was shut off the first night for about 12 hours. I could not shower, wash dishes or flush toilet ! There is no heat in apartment. Their was a old TV, but not connected, also I could not get on the internet. The agent Saul Ferrari, I only saw when I checked in, he never came back! I had paid for 3 nights after that I left.
I went to a internet café and did research, found a couple of others. I finally found the Renda apartments, even in a nicer neighborhood, for the same price as the Garibaldi house. The owner of Renda , also owns a Salumeria on the ground floor on the building. There is also a fancy pastry shop next to the Salumeria, I bought some cannoli, and even Chocolate profiderolls.I will be in this place for at least 10 days.
I moved to the Renda on Saturday March 7, 2009. I went to an amazing buther shop, they had fresh meats and poultry, everthing was cut to order. They even had fresh rabbit. They ground meat you bought in front of you, sliced meat to your liking, I have never seen anything like this in the U.S. It made Whole Foods or Bristol Farms look like the Wal Mart !
The first day in the Renda, I cooked homemade tortellini, with a sauce from 2 kinds of fresh homemade sausage and fresh tomatoes. The other meal I had Chicken breast stuffed with mozzerella cheese.
The next day , I had a skewer of beef that was stuffed and rolled in spices, with fresh tomatoes in olive oil.
The fresh fish market closes at noon, I looked at them when I was in first apartment. I will probably go to check them out tommorow, all stores except pastry shopes are closed on Sunday. I have to remember not to buy too much, I can only eat so much a day.
I have been getting around just by walking, have not taken any transportation since I arrived at the airport in Trapani. When I pass some older person , I say either bono journo or bouno serra, depending on the time of day. I have found to just say” journo “in the morning and “serra” afternoon, they leave off the “bono” part .
The only thing I bought today was two big cannolis and five chocolate profitarolls, they were delicious.
On Sunday families walk around together, after church, they go to pastry shop. Some men hang out by the café and talk.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi!

Gosh I wish I was there!

Excellent writing! You are a very good writer! I'm not kidding! It's fun to read!

January 2009 issue of Gourmet magazine is all about ITALY!!! and ITALIAN FOOD!!!

www.gourmet.com

with two pages devoted exclusively to Sicily (pg 34-39)
including where to eat, what to try. But what you are writing sounds just as fantastic, if not better.

The magazine also tells you how to make fresh MOZARELLA!!! Do you know how? You make fresh cheese, then do additional steps of you immerse the fresh cheese into heated salted water, then knead it. You repeat that five times.

Then when you are just about ready to give up, it miraculously transforms into string cheese texture. It has pictures to go with all of the steps also.

Everything you are describing is just like in that Jan 2009 Gourmet.



I also read a Barron's Educational Guide to Italy. It tells what is the food specialty of each region. I did not know that cannoli is from Sicily!

At first I felt really ignorant that I did not know that so many famous things are from Sicily. Then I felt happy that I finally learned the distinctions!

Gourmet Jan 2009 also said that New Orleans Muffuletto sandwich is from Sicily!!! I did not know that either! Apparently alot of Sicilians settled in New Orleans.

Anonymous said...

Hi! (cont'd.)

It's interesting the timing of your trip to Italy coincides with an entire Gourmet magazine devoted to ITALY!

The editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl wrote that the basis of Italian cooking is that the home cooks know how to make the excellent food.

She said in 1970s there was some snobbery about Italian cooking but is interesting now has come full circle the appreciation that it all is good, because each region has excellent home cooks that know how to prepare the food.

There was also an article about kids growing up in 1940s and 50s in USA and what they ate in their own home, or friend's home, that was Italian cooking.

For example: you described the butcher shop in Sicily. That is like how one of the authors described what their family continued to do even after they came to USA: they went to the butcher shop and got the entire sheep's head, and prepared it with the brains, the eyeballs, and everything all still intact.

I suppose this is one example of ways in which the world is getting better! That Gourmet magazine now features all the indigenous foods of Italy and there's widespread appreciation for it.

In fact, Reichl said that it is the food of the Italian Diaspora: people who had to leave their homeland but brought the knowledge of how to prepare their foods with them.

I hope you can continue to have many exciting adventures there! Keep on sharing what you are experiencing, it's great!

PS - I also liked hearing about how everything is made out of stone: the streets, the buildings. It's fascinating to think about the human effort that it took to accomplish that!

The aesthetic feeling of stone is so different than that of asphalt. It's nice how your words paint a picture of it!

Love

Love

Anonymous said...

Hi!

I also like how you described what people say when passing on the street, they drop the "Buon". You really get the feeling of being there.

Encore! Encore!

Love

Anonymous said...

QUESTION:

Hi!

Did you make the tortellini yourself, or was it purchased in the Salumeria homemade? I saw some website where the ladies and little girls in Sicily? Italy? would sit in their doorways making the pasta similar to tortellini.

Love

Gene Viglione said...

Giorno,

Che cosa dopo la stretta di giorno per voi!! Il buther come così eloquente avete scritto, sguardi proprio eccitati per ottenere la sua immagine presa… Posso vedere che state lasciando un'impressione durevole su quelle non vediate mai ancora! Il vostro blog è un divertimento colto, l'insetto potrà che guardare indietro questo un giorno e dire che il tipo è mamma abbastanza FREDDA!! E dirò sì l'INSETTO che è!! Continu aare scrivere e divertirsi. Prego trasmettami le immagini del mio gentiluomo del paese se sono sul vostro calcolatore! Devo trasmetterlo ad un cacciatore classico dell'automobile!! ARRIVEDERCI

Gene Viglione said...

Good Morning,Gene the Bean!! Translation.

What will the day hold for you next!!

The buther as you so eloquently wrote, looks quite thrilled to get his picture taken... I can see you are leaving a lasting impression on the ones you will never see again!

Your blog is a fun read, Bug will be able to look back on this one day and say that guy is pretty COOL mom!! And I will say yes BUG he is!!

Keep writing and having a great time. Please send me the pictures of my Country Squire if they are on your computer! I have to send them to a classic car hunter!!

BYE! Tamalyn Torr e seeya